Exploring Hallands Väderö: Sweden’s Wild and Peaceful Island | Smart is Beauty

Sponsored post, all words are my own, and I only ever work with brands I love and think you will too. 

Do you have a favourite island?

That’s the question Skandinavisk asked in celebration of their ØY fragrance – a collection with notes of water mosses, dog rose, crabapple and green leaves, inspired by the solitude and raw beauty of the Nordic islands (keep a lookout for the discount code at the end of this post). 

There’s something magical about the word island, isn't there? It conjures images of wind-blown shores, untouched nature, and life lived at a slower pace. Coming from a sailing family, I’ve been lucky to explore many islands – which isn’t hard when you live in Sweden, the country with more islands than anywhere else in the world (true story!). But my heart always returns to one close to home.

Just a kilometre off the coast of Torekov, where we have our little cabin, lies Hallands Väderö – a 3-square-kilometre, car-free nature reserve where seals lounge on sun-warmed rocks and ancient trees line quiet forest paths. It’s both wild and serene.

Arriving by ferry from Torekov to Sandhamn on a relaxing day trip, you leave behind more than just the mainland—you leave behind the rush of everyday life. Instead, you're greeted by stillness, fresh sea air, and a sense of something timeless.

Let me take you there today!

The ØY hand cream is so lovely and light yet nourishing - I always have it in my bag! It's made with Swedish rapeseed oil – and smells just like a breath of fresh island air. 

Getting there

Hallands Väderö is completely uninhabited, apart from a handful of simple summer cottages tucked among the trees. The only way to reach the island is by boat—and thankfully, a ferry runs from Torekov year-round (see the schedule). When the ferry arrives at Sandhamn, there’s no traffic, no shops – just a few wooden trolleys waiting at the dock. They’re there for the lucky cottage owners to load up with food, clothes, books, and board games – everything needed for slow days and quiet nights, all wheeled through the forest to their front door. The only sign of service is a small, charming café that opens during the summer months – just enough for an ice cream, a coffee, or a slice of something sweet after a swim.

Exploring the island

When our children were little, we’d often spend whole days on the sandy beach in Sandhamn – building forts, collecting shells, and watching the hours drift by. These days, we’ll usually pick one of the many marked trails that weave across the island, each one signposted with different coloured wooden stakes. Our first port of call is often Kappelhamn for a swim.

To reach Kappelhamn, the trail leads through a mix of open meadows where horses roam, and deep, shady forests where moss carpets the ground and the air smells of pine and sea. Keep a look out for the English graveyard – a forgotten resting place for shipwrecked sailors, hidden among the trees and weathered by time. 

Kappelhamn

On the southern side of the island lies Kappelhamn – a favourite spot for boat daytrippers and island bathers. It feels like a tiny archipelago, with its mix of sandy beaches, sun-warmed cliffs, smooth skerries, and a bathing platform. Tucked into the landscape are a handful of off-grid summer cottages – simple and secluded, with sweeping views over the Kattegat. There’s no electricity, just the rhythm of the sea and the quiet luxury of living in tune with nature (rain or shine!). 

  

The ØY Wash (500ml) is ideal for the shower (we have it in our cabin). I love that it's naturally made with Swedish oat fibre and organic aloe vera to soothe and hydrate. One of the scent notes is dog rose, which is found in abundance on Hallands Väderö. 

The clear waters around the island can get surprisingly warm in summer – up to 22°C (that’s 72°F!), which definitely counts as tropical by Swedish standards. Even on chillier days, a quick dip is wonderfully refreshing. I’ll admit, I’m what Swedes affectionately call a badkruka – a “bathing pot” – basically someone who takes forever to get in (and often doesn’t). Per, on the other hand, is a proper Viking and swims year-round without so much as a flinch. So yes, pack your bathers – whether you're a badkruka or a seasoned bather, the sea is always waiting.

The ØY lotion (500 ml) is super nourishing yet sinks in fast – perfect for after a swim. My girls really love it too!

 

To the lighthouse

No visit to the island is complete without a walk to Hallands Väderö Lighthouse. The trail between Kappelhamn and the lighthouse takes you past the old farm – red barns, a few slow-moving cows – a quiet reminder of the island’s farming past. From there, things get a bit more rugged and marshy as you reach the exposed western coast, where the Kattegat winds pick up. Wooden boardwalks and coastal trails lead you out to the lighthouse – a white tower that’s been calmly guiding ships for over a hundred years. You can’t go in, but just getting there is half the experience – big skies, sea air, and that wide-open feeling you only get at the edge of an island. And I’ll admit, the walk feels slightly easier these days without a toddler on our backs.

In spring and early summer, Hallands Väderö quietly bursts into bloom. The meadows and forest edges are scattered with wood anemones, bird’s-foot trefoil, violets, and even the occasional wild orchid. As summer deepens, you’ll find hardy coastal blooms like sea thrift, wild thyme, and yarrow, clinging to the sun-baked cliffs and open fields. It’s a gentle, low-key kind of beauty – nothing too dramatic – but full of life if you stop and take it in. 

Staying the night

Just beside the lighthouse, Fyrplatsen—the island’s original refuge for overnight stays—is perfect for anyone wanting to linger a little longer… or for stragglers who (like us, nearly a few times) miss the 4 pm ferry. Perched out on the wild western tip,the self-catered stay is a pretty exciting place to spend the night, and well worth lugging your clothes, food, and board games all the way out there. Alternatively, Skogvaktaregården also offers overnight accommodation, nestled within the island’s peaceful landscape.

That said, I do love heading back to Torekov and our little cabin at the end of the day – cheeks rosy, candle lit, and a glass of wine in hand. Bliss! 

I hope you’ve enjoyed this little visit to my favourite island. If you can’t get there yourself, the next best thing might just be the ØY Island Solitude collection from Skandinavisk – it’s like the feeling of the island, bottled up in scent! 

As a little gift from me, you can get 20% off throughout July with the code island20. 

I’d love to hear about your favourite island too, please do share in the comments below if you'd like. 

I'll be back on Friday with a very charming tour. See you then! 

Niki

Smart is Beauty

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